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Surfing in Hawaii

Hawaii is the Mecca (0) of surfing, the hallowed (1) centre of the wave riding world. Besides being universally recognized as the motherland of our sport, Hawaii has served (2) for decades as the ultimate proving ground for advanced surfers. With over 800 miles of coastline along its four largest islands (Hawaii, Kauai, Oahu, and Maui) and a temperate climate all year round, it's an obvious attraction (3) for beachgoers. Evidence of surfing in Hawaii goes back to (4) 1500 BC. Rock drawings show stick figures on long boards, which offers proof that surfing has long been a part of Hawaiian culture and history. (5)  In ancient times, it is believed that chiefs surfed to maintain their physical strength as well as for its entertainment value.

(6) Through Captain Cook's 1778 journal entries, we glimpse the development of surfing on the beaches of Hawaiiand now witness thousands who flock annually like suicidal ducks to challenge its treacherous reef breaks.

When the missionaries (7) from Scotland and Germany arrived in 1821, they forbade or discouraged many Polynesian traditions and cultural practices, including, on Hawaii, leisure sports such as surfing and holua sledding. (8) By the 20th century, surfing, along with other traditional practices, had all but disappeared. Only a small number of Hawaiians continued to practice the sport and (9) the art of crafting boards.

Should you be fortunate to visit Hawaii, you too can learn this sport of kings (10) by taking an introductory course. It is unlikely that you will sustain any injuries as you will be taught (11) by experienced instructors and the waves are only 2 feet high. 15-foot high waves such as were featured in the film ‘Point Break’ are only (12) for the entirely fearless.

In any case, most organised beaches offer supervision from lifeguards, but experienced surfers may prefer to go on their own to find more secluded beaches. Also, keep in mind that the size of the wave goes (13) with the size of your surfboard. Surfboards come in a variety of lengths, so a short board, for example, would be unsuitable (14) for a tall wave.

http://surfing.about.com/od/epicsurfspots/a/The-Top-5-Surfing-Destinations-In-The-World.htm

 

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